Feature
The curious story of how fish and chips has its origins in Greater Manchester
A chip shop in Tommyfield Market, Oldham claims to be the first ever British chip shop.
According to the blue plaque outside the shop, this small chip shop in Oldham was home to the ‘first British fried chip’ in 1860. Now that’s a pretty bold statement to make about a component that became the nation’s favourite dish over 100 years later.
It’s pretty difficult to ascertain if it’s true or not, but there are plenty of facts that do indeed point us in that direction.
What is widely agreed, however, is where fried fish comes from – introduced to us Brits by Jewish refugees from Europe.
While fleeing countries such as Portugal, Spain, Holland and Russia to avoid persecution, Jewish people came to Britain. They brought with them a whole host of culinary techniques and cuisines, including the humble fried fish. And almost all of them caught on pretty quickly.
Along with tradition, fish was to be fried in flour and oil on a Friday and consumed on the Sabbath, cold.
The fish was sold on large trays hung around the necks of street sellers. And we know this to be true because even Charles Dickens’ Oliver Twist (1839) references a ‘fried fish warehouse’.
So, we’ve established that fried fish was a thing by the 1840s. But where do chips come into this?
What I think is important to do at this point, is to take a moment to appreciate the humble potato.
As soon as us Brits got our grubby little paws on the potato, we realised the wondrous things it could do and cooked it in what would have been a variety of creative ways back then – including boiling, mashing and putting them in a stew.
Since then, we’ve chipped them, crisped them, Hassleback-ed them, made tater hash, hash browns, wedges, Smiley Faces, potato cakes, the cheesy delights that are croquettes – the humble potato can even fashion as a kids painting stamp to name but a few uses.
That right there is the reason that my favourite food is always, and forever will be, the potato. And for all of you who say chicken – Nando’s chicken would be nothing without peri peri chips.
But who was the first person to get creative and FRY the potato?
Well, this is where the blue plaque in Oldham comes in. Because it was in fact there that one dexterous Oldhamer put two and two together and got a handful of chips.
Or was it? It can never be easy, can it?!
I’m going to throw two more men into the deep fat fryer, Mr John Lees and Joseph Malin, who both put ‘First Fish & Chip Shop in the world’ to their name.
Mr Lees opened his wooden kiosk in Mossley, a rumour has it that he saw Tommyfield Market and rubbed his hands in glee about this fantastic new idea of putting FIRED chips with FRIED fish together in one neat newspaper-wrapped parcel.
Around about the same time, a Jewish immigrant called Joseph Malin opened his ‘very first ever’ fish and chip shop in London.
So, is Manchester the birthplace of fish and chips?
Well, I have no conclusive evidence to suggest otherwise. It is possible that Mr Lees pioneered the concept in the North, while Mr Malin did so in the south simultaneously and without either man knowing about the other.
So let’s just grab it with both hands, claim it and add to our city’s long list of achievements and be done with it.
Feature
Affleck’s is home to the last remaining cassette tape shop in the UK
It’s 2021, and cassette tapes are going nowhere…
Remember the humble cassette tape? Those clunky bits of plastic wound up with tape containing all your favourite songs waiting to be played in your bedside cassette decks?
Well, while they may seem like a distant memory to most of us (or completely pre-historic to you younger readers), it turns out they’re still quite the hit for one shop right here in Manchester.
Mars Tapes, located in the vibrant and eclectic Affleck’s Palace, was opened by friends Alex Tadross, Giorgio Carbone, and Borja Reguira who all shared a passion for retro music. But their love for cassette tapes in particular came when the group started their own music label, Sour Grapes, in 2017.
Alex told the MEN: “All three of us have been musicians and in bands, done gigs, and been on the local scene before we launched the label. We kind of specialised in doing cassettes for local bands, and European garage rock bands, and that kind of turned into this shop.”
The group found vinyl to be a little too expensive to produce music on, and no one was interested in CDs, so they turned to the next best thing: cassettes.
Alex explained: “It was all about affordability at first really. Vinyl runs can cost up to £1,000 to £2,000 to do depending on how many you want to release.”
And, despite everyone getting their music fix via Spotify or Apple Music (guilty) these days, demand for cassettes is surprisingly high, with Alex saying that business couldn’t be better.
“We started selling them here in Affleck’s and we got more and more stock, and became an authentic cassette shop. And we like to think we’re unique and that we’re the last one.”
Mars Tapes now boasts an incredible selection of music, including ‘New music,’ which includes an array of brand new, unopened and newly released tapes from the likes of Chic, Bjork, Florence and the Machine and Lewis Capaldi.
Though for those with a somewhat more vintage taste in music, fear not! Customers will also be able to find some golden oldies, too, such as The Beatles, Elvis and The Rolling Stones.
There’s also a ‘Manc Bands’ shelf with tapes from Take That, Simply Red, New Order, and even current chart-toppers Blossoms’ last album ‘Foolish Lovin’ Spaces.’
There’s even a selection of cassette tapes brought back from a holiday in Cairo, limited edition tapes ‘from around the world’, pop, rock, compilations, radio shows, ‘songs for the bedroom’ and plenty more.
So, when you next come across a dusty cassette tape in your bedroom drawer, make sure you bring it down to Mars Tapes, because they’ll definitely buy it off you.
To stay up to date with their wonderful cassette finds and offerings, follow their official Instagram page and drop a visit to their website… Or, just pop into Affleck’s when you’re next in town. I’d recommend the latter.
Feature
The amazing reason Manchester has an Abraham Lincoln statue and square in the city centre
Believe it or not, the statue isn’t just there to brighten the place up…
Located just off Albert Square in the smaller, more easily missed location of Lincoln Square, there stands a statue of the late US President Abraham Lincoln.
But why?
You’d be forgiven for being a little puzzled at the presence of an American politician who seemingly has no connection or place in our city, especially in a location as quiet and hidden away as Lincoln Square is.
But, as it turns out, the statue stands tall today as a poignant reminder for the role Victorian Manchester played in the US Civil War and the eventual abolishment of slavery.
David Dixon / Geograph
Let’s start from the beginning: As the largest processor of cotton in the world at the time, Manchester took a strong moral and political stance by supporting President Lincoln, despite his blockade of the Confederate states and the cotton supply beginning in April 1861.
Even though Manchester and its surrounding areas found a huge proportion (an estimated 60%) of its mills were struggling to stay afloat, largely as a result of the blockade, in a meeting at the Manchester Free Trade Hall in 1862 workers agreed to maintain their support for Lincoln – who was aiming to out-manoeuvre the Confederate states, win the civil war and ultimately abolish the US slave trade.
In supporting Lincoln and the Union the working people of Manchester had selflessly put their principles ahead of their own economic self-interest, leading to unemployment and hardship for the workers.
Thomas Hawk / Flickr
President Lincoln wrote a letter in 1863 to thank the people of Manchester for their support – the letter, currently held by Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives, reads: “When I came, on the 4th of March, 1861, through a free and constitutional election to preside in the Government of the United States, the country was found at the verge of civil war.
“Whatever might have been the cause, or whosesoever the fault, one duty, paramount to all others, was, before me, namely, to maintain and preserve at once the Constitution and the integrity of the Federal Republic.”
Just two years later and months after the US Congress passed the Thirteenth Amendment which officially abolished slavery, Lincoln was assassinated.
Despite his death, however, Lincoln continued to be regarded as somewhat of a Mancunian legend so, shortly after the First World War, a statue in his memory was sculpted by George Grey Bernard. The original statue was completed in 1916 and exhibited in New York before its sponsor, wealthy businessman Charles Taft from Cincinatti, said he would pay for a replica to be erected in England.
The statue was actually intended to stand outside the Houses of Parliament, in a tribute from the United States marking 100 years of peace between the two countries. However, the American sculptors’ depiction of a ‘vigorous pose’ was far too controversial for London’s tastes at the time, so the statue subsequently came to Manchester where it remains today.
Waymarking.com
The monument was initially unveiled at Platt Fields Park, where it remained until the late 1980s before being moved and mounted on a new pedestal in its home today, Lincoln Square.
And, in 2013, after years of enduring pollution and dirt build-up, the plaque was eventually cleaned and the message to the people of Manchester was revealed at long last.
It reads: “The support that the working people of Manchester gave in their fight for the abolition of slavery during the American Civil War… By supporting the union under President Lincoln at a time when there was an economic blockade of the southern states the Lancashire cotton workers were denied access to raw cotton which caused considerable unemployment throughout the cotton industry.”
Feature
NEW OPENING: The Manchester pop-up serving waffles, fried chicken and lobster boxes
Manchester’s newest opening is built upon the roots of good old fashioned home cooking
The newest addition to Manchester’s already extensive food scene is giving the humble chicken burger a very syrupy makeover.
WaffleStop opened its first ever pop-up kitchen just last week, but was born during lockdown as a virtual dark kitchen with a focus on good, old-fashioned home cooking with a twist. The brains behind the unique chicken-waffle-barbecue concept, Moss Side-born Georgia Patrick, came up with the idea for her brand when cooking for her partner.
Speaking to Proper Manchester, Georgia detailed how the inspiration for WaffleStop was born, crediting her love for home-made, high quality and unique food. She said: “I’m not really the type of person who always wants to go out for date nights, sometimes I prefer to just sit in and make a nice meal.
WaffleStop
“So on our anniversary a couple of years ago, I asked my partner what he wanted to eat, and he suggested ‘American fusion.’ There, I thought to myself, why don’t I make my own waffle chicken burger?”
From there, Georgia got to work researching various recipes for barbecue sauce, eventually coming up with her own unique recipe and creating her own waffle sauce. Initially using frozen waffles from the supermarket, Georgia made her first waffle burger and it proved to be a huge hit. She explained: “My brother came around to try it and when he loved it, that sparked the idea to start selling them.”
From there, she started making her own waffles from scratch and, with her business partners, brother Jerome Patrick and Dominic Cook, began putting together a full menu and business plan.
Thanks to the ongoing lockdowns last year, however, WaffleStop was forced to operate as a virtual dark kitchen – but now that Manchester has officially reopened, WaffleStop has secured a residency at The Progress Centre in Ardwick as a pop up.
WaffleStop
Since then, the menu has expanded massively; as well as her trademark waffle chicken burger, there are the likes of mac ‘n’ cheese, chicken wings, and even seafood additions such as chilli jerk glazed prawns and barbecue glazed lobster tail. There are also meat-free alternatives for vegetarian and vegan customers such as the Cali Burger, which includes a southern-fried cauliflower with sweet-chilli sauce.
Speaking of the unique menu, Georgia explained: “A menu highlight is definitely our lobster tail which is served with our signature barbecue sauce. The lobster tail comes as part of our Waffle Box deal, which comes with seasoned corn and two slices of waffle.
“The fusion-fried rice is also really popular, as are our honey-nut strips and honey-nut waffle burgers, which all give a sweet-but-savory twist to the menu.”
WaffleStop
Other box combinations include the Beach Box, which consists of loaded white chocolate and strawberry waffles, sweet chilli jerk salmon and seasoned corn, and the Baby Box, a smaller portion of white chocolate waffles and seasoned corn and a smaller price for those not wanting to break the bank.
WaffleStop is open Tuesday – Saturday, 12pm-8pm at the Progress Centre in Ardwick and operates on a strictly order and pick up basis only (though a sit down restaurant is on the cards for the future.)
WaffleStop, CheeseTrap and SugarBabez can all be found at the Progress Centre in Ardwick. For more information and to place your order, visit the official WaffleStop Instagram account here.
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